Ballylee, 17th December 2008
Driving back from Kerry yesterday, I got very tired as I approached Gort and decided that I would have to have a nap if I was to make it back to Mayo safely. So I turned off the main road and went down to the Yeats tower where, I knew, there is a handy car park away from the noise of traffic. As it was dark (about six p.m.) I thought I would park right beside the tower itself, out of some feeling of insecurity, so I pulled in at the stable right opposite the Thoor. After a few minutes I had the passenger seat down and had cleared enough space to spread out my sleeping bag.
This was a place of many recollections and associations; Yeats himself might have referred to psychic memory. I thought of Robartes and Aherne in 'Phases of the Moon' approaching the tower in the evening and looking up to the lit window where the modern poet laboured away. Other moments from the 'Meditations' and the Tower poems: the young man killed in the civil war skirmish; WB praying for his daughter as the storm howled outside. I was on all fours in the back of my ford with these visitations in my mind when a car sped past and, I thought, caught me in its headlights. Did the guards patrol the area? If so, I thought the local officer with his torch might be a more likely visitant than the ghost of our poet.
Once I was in my bag I could lie there and listen. Another car sped down to the car park, skidded around aggressively, and drove away again: sussing out the place for untended vehicles, or just touring, who could know. Then just the noise of a windy western night, the body of the car being buffetted by the gusts, and, briefly, the sneeze of a fox. I also heard a loud crack, as if a branch had broken in the wind ('a pear tree broken').
WB, the proprietorial ghost, did not materialise; I vainly thought he might have been curious about this traveller lying there among stacks of old books. Of course, for all his encomiums to the stability of the Big House tradition, he was himself an unsettled type: Ballylee was a bleak place that night. I might have been better off in Rapallo in pursuit of my psychic quest.
I did not sleep after all, but an hour with these images washing through my mind was rest enough from the demands of night driving. At 7.45 I got back behind the wheel and drove home.

